Search results

I think you already answered your own question, no professional shop in their right mind would let that back out due to liability. If someone lost steering ability and caused an accident because of that failing down the line, they would be done if it got traced back to them knowingly ignoring...

They likely firmed up their component orders much earlier this year to help delivery, thats why product and color choices were constrained. I also thought they moved some dirt product production from Roseau in order to help the snow product line run continuous this year

More than likely complete if its arriving this early, they were only shipping incomplete product in late fall to speed up final delivery to the consumer when the parts showed up. Much harder to hold & ship an entire sled than send smaller components via Fedex or UPS.

From the top: At WOT will cut power at about 70 mph.

Let me start by saying don't think of this like an automotive 12v system. I believe there's a rectifier in that part of the circuit, separate from the voltage regulator, that controls the voltage to the battery. That regulator you tested controls voltage to the headlight, handwarmer, & ignition...

Polaris had a 1 page supplement to the manual in those days with all the specifications & clutching recommendations. They since got smart and included that info right in the manual. I found and attached a copy for your sled

I think you are going to have problems keeping it cool in that chassis since the RMK coolers aren't really meant for trail riding. You'd be better off juicing up an Assault since you are only going 146 anyway, not to mention the rear suspension is designed more for trail than the KHAOS skid.

If you can swing it, I would step up to an AXYS chassis Pro-S. Seems like everyone has good things to say about them, better cruising since you are sitting more forward on that chassis vs the pro-ride.

Yep, and as I stated earlier the only change to that part is they now machine the aluminum surface that seats the bearing. I'd still wait and see what change they are making for '23. The parts diagrams usually start popping up on Polaris website in September, updated as the specific machines...

Chances are it was fine still. I've seen the light blink intermittently on my sleds before, comes on solid with enough oil still in the system to not starve anything and still be ridden for several miles. I would be looking at the oiling of that center cylinder to see what happened. Something...

The oil light is just the level sensor in the tank, has no physical connection to the engine itself. I assume there was still oil available in the tank?

I doubt they will cover it unless there's an obvious sign of failure with the bearing itself, vibrations could be many different things. Unless you pop the seal off and its completely dry of grease and the race is scored, I'd be surprised if its covered. Talk to your dealer and see what he says...

If they are rebuildable, which it sounds like the rear definitely is, Carver Performance or Hygear Suspension should be able to hook you up.

Ah that makes sense, is it loose or just need to be repacked with greased?

I thought this was your 2016 sled? Doubt there's any warranty left on that?

Not the main jets. Probably have to tweak the fuel screw a little to clean up the idle. Also the reeds "break in" after 100 miles or so, might be a little temperamental starting and idling until then.

If you can, I would wait and see what they did for the '23s. The only change to the '22 was they machined the aluminum so that the bearing has a more consistent fit/alignment vs relying on the raw casting to set the bearing. Hearing from the Ambassadors that more change is coming for '23 from...

I would get a set of VForce for it, even Polaris gave up on their crappy reeds and use VForce as their OEM in all the newer machines since '15. I would be more concerned with changing the water pump belt, that also drives the oil pump, than I would be with the pump itself. I had one of those...

Your best bet is to try and find a used service manual on EBAY or Amazon. I don't have anything of that vintage. Also check the voltage regulator, the lights acting up could be it going out.

I'd also consider doing the upper chaincase bearing at this point too, who knows how much it was stressed with the shaft being able to walk around on this end.