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One other possibility is the chokes are hung up or not adjusted right but that shouldn't dump a ton of fuel in, usually just makes it too rich to fire the plugs.

Yeah, not a good sign he didn't understand why it was flooding. That is almost 90% going to be a float issue not stopping the flow from the tank. The only other possibility is the fuel pump has a bad diaphragm and its coming in thru the impulse line off that. Pull that line off and see if the...

Haven't seen anything newer than 17 so far.

Yeah thats not good, if its flooding that bad, its definitely the o rings. You can potentially knock the crank out of phase if you hydrolocked it. Hope you shut the gas off so it stops bleeding more in. Dont try pulling it over again until you pull the drains. There are 2 drain plugs under the y...

Go get some orings and start there. Arctic Cat sells them separately from the float so thats the best way to get them, they used the same style Mikuni carb. The closest I could find is 2001 but should get you close, but if you go create an account on Polaris website and enter your VIN in "my...

Polaris still sells all the seals separately, unfortunately thats probably the only way to get them as I didn't see a kit anywhere either.

The service manual doesn't give any information on those coolers other than to give the same diagram you posted, but looks like the 9 rivets is it.

Yes, stay under 3000 rpm and it should be ok. One of my buddies did this accidentally on a Sportsman quad and it smoked the regulator, not sure what it would do to a sled.

That manual you downloaded should walk you right thru it, with all the torque specs and the gap settings for the pickups too. Look back in the engine section. You might be able to get that one repaired, worth reaching out to RMstator on your side of the border and see what they say I would also...

Sounds like somethings overheating and quitting. Thats why it takes a while to do it. First thing I would do is change all the relays in the sled to the Panasonic ones from DigiKey. Search the older threads on here that talk about that, factory ones were chinese crap. Its possible the load shed...

Looks like you circled the problem in the first picture, that hose off the brake caliper to the coolers is likely shot. All those hoses on that sled are 20+years old now and are looking dry and aged in those pictures. Also don't use newer coolant in that sled, the seals in the older sleds can't...

100 is right about where the stat opens on the newer sleds so the first part sounds good. The second part has way too many variables to it, is the snow loose? totally packed like a rock? How much snow is getting into the tunnel? Dipping into snow definitely helps, but they always take a while...

That left plug looks awfully clean for a sled still in break in mode.

I think you are out of luck on this one, I dont see anything for that specific sled. Considering they are asking $200+ for what rear shocks are available, Partszilla showed $278 for your OEM when it was available, it might be worth contacting Carver or Hygear and see what they would get to make...

From the parts diagram that looks like a rebuildable Fox shock in that sled, post a picture if you can.

I agree with what Mike said on where to start, but your description doesn't make sense. The 2002's didn't have the Ducati igntions anymore, they started switching to Kokusan in 2000 and newer machines that had the Mikuni rack carb setup, by 02 they were all on that setup. You sure thats the...

What about the driveshaft bearing? Did you pull the cover and look at that?

I haven't heard any good things about aftermarket regulators, hell even the factory struggles with them as you've seen by the redesign. That being said, you really need to hunt down a wiring diagram or get a service manual at this point. The newer CFI's have the stator split into dedicated coils...

Aftermarket regulator or factory? There are separate circuits off the stator for critical (ignition) and non-critical (lights & accessories) loads. That's why it runs fine and could possibly be one of the stator circuits failing. Intermittent issues suck to diagnose.

I would also disconnect the negative battery cable while doing this testing to make sure the batterys not putting a strain on the charging system at this point.