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This is all you are going to get from the factory, what was being said in the discussion?

There is a hose barb the fuel supply line connects to around 3/4 up the fuel tank. It is sealed by a rubber grommet the barb pushes thru. That could be failing and be leaking. There is also the tank vent at the top of the tank that has a vent hose that runs up the steering shaft. Like I said...

Could only be weeping until the vibration of the machine makes it worse, or its on the pressure side of the fuel pump. This is one you where are going to have to pull the airbox out of the way and start looking. If its still the original fuel lines, I can guarantee thats whats failing as they...

Yeah not sure what he was thinking, all those seals take a set & fail after a while from the crappy gas these days. Did the dealer recommend him or just tell you he is someone who will work on older stuff? I know they avoid older iron like the plague for fear of running up a bill more than the...

Probably a leaking fuel line somewhere. The ethanol gas eats the lines in the older machines and turns them hard and brittle, they then crack and leak.

Wouldn't hurt to pull the spark plugs and shoot some in thru the carb boots while pulling it over since you are pulling the carbs again anyway. It'll get pushed up into the cylinders while you are pulling it over so I wouldn't worry about putting some down the plug holes this time

I doubt its the cap in your case since it does it while already running, but test it anyway. More likely a stator or regulator issue.

First off, the kill switch should be off when pulling it over with the plug wire off. Can possibly damage the coils otherwise. Given all the stator issues popping up lately, I'd start there. Sounds like something is getting hot in the electrical system and quitting. here is a link to the stator...

Have you tried kicking the coupler blocks down a notch?

Not sure about that vintage but the newer stuff gets cranky if the TPS is out of adjustment, does the same thing. Good place to start.

You are probably going to have to check the snowest forums on that one, alot more RMK guys on there. Trail sled bulkhead is different.

That'll allow the front skid to drop more and lighten up your ski pressure, why do you want to do it?

You might have to have the dealer plug it in to DigitalWrench ( or get CanDoopro) and see if there's any codes. The display only shows active codes and forgets them once powered down, or in your case the engine stalling. The ECM could still have history codes. Only other thing you could do is...

Fuel delivery problem? Have you changed out the tank sock?

That would've been the first year of the Proride chassis

Yeah it should, mine was taken out by a piece of plastic the size of a pinhead that stuck the float. Plus none of the original seals were ethanol compliant back then, so guaranteed the float orings are shot. A utility sleds much better for what you are using it for, most of those have a...

I'm honestly surprised they are that close. You have the old Fuji 488 in your sled vs the XC has the Polaris built small block twin. These were the transition years to Polaris built engines

So here's where the problem starts, they don't list a kit for your specific sled. What they list is in the link below. Other problem is some of those original parts were custom for Polaris and are not available anymore, this usually pertains to needles. Since you only use this for ice fishing...

I know why he did what he did, Polaris only sells the float as an assembly for $129 each. If you don't know where to source the parts, it gets expensive fast. Parts Unlimited sells a whole rebuild kit for those carbs with all the gaskets & orings, Dennis Kirk has them usually in stock. I don't...

Yeah thats the closest you are going to get without getting a degree wheel on the crank and some dial indicators to find the true TDC of each piston, tools I highly doubt you have. I can't take credit for the dowel tip, I had seen that one years ago when I had a problem similar to what you are...