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Are you getting 12v on each yellow probing to ground individually or did you put the meter probes on both yellows simultaneously?

I'm not sure that will do anything, the three X,Y, & Z circuits they show in the diagrams are wired independently of each other. What is the AC voltage you get when you probe across the yellow wires going ot the regulator?

I did a little looking around, to get the 14V DC output from the regulator on the red wire you should be seeing more than 20V AC input from the stator on those yellow wires for the conversion to happen. I would be scrutinizing all the connections & wiring from the stator to the VR. You are...

Not sure directly off the stator, its still AC at that point but they don't give a value for it, just the ohms for the circuit. The voltage regulator converts it to DC. How is the tail light, is it bright or very dim? The instrument cluster works ok? Have you checked all the pins in the...

I kind of remember doing a needle change on mine, but I had an SLP single on it so I was tuning for that also. I thought the needle change was to clean up that low end burble you are noticing, I remember having that too. I had the boost bottle too but turns out that was just covering for the...

One other thing, the Keihins adjustment screw are an AIR adjustment to the low end mixture not a fuel screw like the Mikunis. So they are doing the opposite when you adjust them and if they are plugged up, you get a really rich mixture down low.

I just remembered something, your sled as that altitude compensation system in the airbox. If you don't intend on operating it at higher elevation you should look into disconnecting it because its probably trying to screw with making it richer at sea level. Edit: nevermind, I think that was just...

I wouldn't bother with the pump yet, just pull the crankcase impulse line to make sure the diaphragms arn't leaking fuel thats getting sucked into the lower end. All that pump does is help get the fuel to the bowls. The fuel inlet needles & floats control the fuel level in the bowls, all that...

Ok that takes care of that. Go ahead and try it, those sleds were pig rich stock. That needle number sounds familiar but its been many years since I screwed around with re-jetting mine. What elevation are you running at?

I would honestly put a set of reeds in it first, the one thing I regretted not doing to my 700. I've since learned Polaris stock reeds were never that great and given the age of yours I can guarantee they are not sealing that tight anymore.

Ok I was wrong, this is where Polaris makes it confusing. That particular 144 RMK sled is still the old pro-ride chassis, so the first manual was the correct one. Does the service manual version you have cover up to the '16 models? The version I have stops at '13 and not sure if they made any...

That pic you posted looks like the pro-ride chassis manual, thats not right for your sled if its a 2016, you need the AXYS chassis manual (2015+) since there are alot of changes to the wiring in the newer chassis. Just noticed in your first post you only mention 1 relay, all the AXYS sleds have...

You have to concentrate on #6 on that list and fix the 6 volts, the capactior needs 12v from the sled in order to charge correctly. Reverse wont work without the capacitor since thats what holds the charge to keep everything alive while the motor is powering down. Also the drain of the capacitor...

There isn't a real good way, I had one of those hand pump suction fluid extractors (like below) that I used on my Pro R but its a pain to get down into the lower parts of the system still. Also it is a pain in the ass to get the system bled fully, hopefully the AXYS is easier than the pro-ride was.

I'd stick to a high quality synthetic myself vs Polaris Blue just for the much improved fluidity of the oil during a cold start, especially in your climate. Most wear happens when engines are cold, been running my 00 700 on synthetic since right after break in when it was new, no regrets. Thats...

Its possible one of the magnets lost charge, I've heard of this happening before especially in old generators that have sat long periods, and having to re-excite them.

Interesting, wonder if this caused by the magnesium shortage that was going on a year ago.

Everything looked good with the impulse line, not sucking any air there? Carb boots torn?

Did they ever say what caused it to fail? Like I said above, that good plug looks awfully clean for a sled still geting extra break in oil. Both of you need to check the oil line at the reservoir when you get your machines back, the fitting they are using on the oil tanks now is notorious for...

Did you put a new needle and seat in the carbs?