Also, the red/blue spring has a low spring rate. It may work with the 68's, but I doubt it will work with the 70's. I vote for the 68's and try a black/green (140-220) and see if you get your rpm's back. If you get them back then you could try a 140-200 or a 155-222.
He stated he had a 140-320 to start. That should be enough to start with. I believe a lot are using 120-310. Going back to the 10 series profile and use a stiffer secondary spring such as a 140-220 or a 160-240. IMO you need to get back to something the pulls reasonable rpm, and than start...
The 66-62 will up shift faster than the 64-60 and load motor more. For now, I would throw the 160-240 in there and see what happens. The spring rate of the 140-200 is 54 #/in and the 160-240 is 72. So that will slow up the shift out. Not sure how those wts work, but it looks like your rpm's...
Ditto. IMO it will come down to one of five secondary springs: 140-200, 155-222, 123-203, 140-220, 160-240. The mid 50 to mid 70 spring rates work very well with the cfi's. Select the starting poundage for good take off with your sleds ability to hook up.
I don't thing the belly busters and the 10 series are exactly the same. There must be some small difference. I had 10-68's in a sled and then put the 68 belly busters in and it just killed the rpm's on hole shots. No other changes. Was surprised there was that much difference and couldn't find...
I wouldn't go less than a 120 initial spring rate. Personally would prefer 140. I believe the only thing keeping the clutch sheaves together when in reverse is the initial spring strength and it's just dumping open and/or slipping.
Observed stock gearing is 22-37. The stock 37 bottom gear is solid, not sure if this is unique to the XCR; more beefed up thing? Also, the Venom 38T gear came with a shim and needs to be used for correct alignment.
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