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The 140-200 spring works well. It has a soft spring rate and helps to get the motor loaded quicker.

Understand the above for a traditional non adjustable wt, but it seems that the profile becomes somewhat less important with adjustable weights. For example, if the weights profile is aggressive then the amount of weight that will need to be added is less than a weight with a less aggressive...

How much weight are you running in th and what is your engagement at?

I would agree with the cam angle.... too aggressive. 46-42 sounds much better. If that gains the rpm back and is less sluggish, then try a 144-200 or a 155-222 to see if one those works better. One of those three springs should be a noticeably different over the other.

I would just change the helix from your original set up. See what happens and go from there. Changing more than one thing at a time just causes confusion. Your goal now is to get it to back shift properly, currently when you get back on the throttle the secondary is just dumping open loading the...

A team red/dk blue is 140/200. The black is 155/222. IMO the 4* spread works better. Plus, with the full progressives, the starting and finishing angles are only achieved when the clutch is fully closed or open. So, for a 50-44, half shifted out would be 47.5*. Which seems pretty aggressive. So...

Drop your rpm. The steeper angle will shift out quicker. I would drop wits by 2grams.

Actually, the 155/222 has a softer rate than the 140/220 and thus it will shift out faster and back shift slower.

I would try a 66/62-64/60 and use that to determine where to go next.

1.73 less dog leg, lighter gears and chain, one mph more on top then 1.74, slightly more chain wrap then stock gear. 1.74 more dog leg, heavier chain and gears, more chain wrap then 1.73. I have a shorty with a 1.5" track and feel the 1.73 works well with it. Since you state you ride mostly...

Just pinch it . You can use the turbo mags to trail ride , just use a shallower helix like a 48/42 or a 46/42 fp with your race helix the other angle and least a 140 lb spring start . It will lug rpm down more then the others in heavy wet snow, warmer conditions or higher elevation like I...

Like the in clutch type of adjustability, makes it a more usable/easy system for changing conditions. So that leaves dalton qap3, cutler it 65-75, or cutler turbo mags 60-70 with the last probably not the best for everyday trail use.

Anybody with any info on the new slp magnum force? They sound good, supposedly their most agressive heel area and the wt slugs start off with being added in the tip. Plus easy to adjust.

IMO big bore or stroked doesn't equate with reliable serious mileage. Clutching and gearing would equate with that criteria.

Yes. Haven't tested too much this year. Poor winter.

Ditto^^^^^^ . IMO on a tied 64-60 maybe +1/2 on either end, and a 123/202, 140/200, or a 140/220. Thinking of trying the SLP magnum wts d/t ease of adjustability for temps above or below freezing. Defiantly can pull more wt when colder, just as Polaris states lighter wts above freezing. On...

Wide power band of the cfi's/single pipe makes this possible.

Start it and see if your brake light works. If not, look for the other fuse. Don' t take the bag out, just open it to get to what you need, or you will spend a lot of time to get it back in there.

Is your brake light working. If not, the fuse is blown. It's in the pouch above the front of the clutch guard/oil bottle. There are two fuses in that bag. One of them is blown. Can't remember the wire colors. They are 2amp. FYI it's 12v dc.

The spring rates 120/203 is 73#/ in, 140/220 is 73, 160/240 is 72, 155/222 is 61, and the 140/200 is 54. For example when the secondary starts to shift out the 140/200 is going to allow the secondary to shift out much quicker then the stock 120/203.